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Materials & Finishes

Wood Fasteners & Adhesives Guide

Updated 3 min read

The short answer

In modern carpentry, screws have largely replaced nails as the primary mechanical fastener for cabinetry and millwork. Wood glue provides the actual structural bond in most joints — the fastener positions and clamps while the glue cures. The right fastener depends on the material, the load, the visibility of the joint and whether the joint needs to be disassembled.

Fastener types compared

Fastener types compared
FastenerHolding strengthRemovable?VisibilityBest use
Wood screw (coarse thread)HighYesHidden or visibleGeneral purpose; wood-to-wood
Cabinet screw (confirmat)Very highYesHiddenCabinet carcass assembly
Pocket screwModerate–highYesSemi-hiddenFace frames, mitred corners
Brad nail (18ga)LowNo (headless)Near invisibleTrim, moulding, decorative elements
Finish nail (15ga)ModerateDifficultNear invisibleTrim, casings, baseboard
BiscuitLowNoHiddenPanel alignment, edge joining
Domino (Festool)HighNoHiddenPanel joining, frame construction
DowelModerateNoHiddenPanel alignment, carcass assembly

Wood glue: what to know

PVA (yellow glue)
The standard wood glue. Dries strong, bonds wood-to-wood better than the wood itself, and is easy to work with. The 20–30 minute open time is sufficient for most assemblies. Not waterproof — use exterior-rated PVA for outdoor applications.
Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue)
Waterproof, bonds almost anything, but expands as it cures (foaming). The expansion requires clamping and produces squeeze-out that is difficult to clean. Best for outdoor projects or dissimilar materials.
Epoxy
The strongest adhesive available. Bonds wood, metal, stone, almost anything. Long cure time allows adjustment. Two-part mixing is fussy. Best for structural repairs, laminating, and filling voids — not for general cabinetry assembly.
CA (super glue)
Instant bond, very brittle. Used for small repairs, model-making and attaching inlays. Not flexible and will fail under impact. Not a structural adhesive.
Contact cement
Bonds on contact — no clamping needed. Used for laminates, veneers and edge banding. Repositionable? No. Once it touches, it stays. Apply to both surfaces, let it tack, then press together.

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Screw specification that matters

Thread type
Coarse thread for softwood and particleboard (more grip). Fine thread for hardwood (less splitting risk). Cabinet screws (confirmat) have a specialized thread pattern designed for panel goods.
Head type
Countersink heads sit flush with the surface. Flat heads are for countersinking. Trim heads are smaller and less visible. Pan heads sit on the surface — use for metal brackets.
Length rule
The screw should penetrate the second piece by at least 25mm but not protrude through the far side. For 18mm plywood, a 40mm screw is typical. For 12mm material, a 30mm screw.
Material
Steel screws for interior dry applications. Stainless steel for anything that might contact moisture. Coated screws (yellow zinc, black phosphate) are standard for interior cabinetry.

Answers

Frequently asked questions

Screws or nails for trim?
Nails (brad or finish) are the standard for trim and moulding because they are nearly invisible and faster to install. Screws are stronger but leave visible heads. For heavy trim that must hold (handrails, newel posts), screws with plugged holes are the correct specification.
Is wood glue stronger than screws?
A properly glued wood-to-wood joint is typically stronger than the surrounding wood. Screws add mechanical strength and hold the joint while the glue cures. For most cabinetry and millwork, the combination of glue plus fasteners is the standard — each compensates for the other's weakness.
Can I use wood glue on MDF?
Yes, PVA wood glue bonds MDF well. However, MDF is weakest at its edges and along its faces. A glued MDF joint is limited by the MDF itself, not the glue. For structural applications, reinforce with screws or dowels in addition to glue.

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