Planning & Checklists
Closet Measurement Worksheet
Updated 3 min read
The short answer
A closet design fails when it is based on an idealised wardrobe rather than the one you own. Ten minutes spent measuring the space and counting your clothes produces a noticeably better design. Measure the opening in three places, record the ceiling height and any obstructions, then count garments by hanging type.
Measuring the space
- Width, in three placesMeasure at floor level, at mid height and near the ceiling. Walls are rarely parallel, and the smallest measurement is the one that governs.
- Depth, in three placesSame principle. Note whether the depth changes across the width, which is common where a duct chase intrudes.
- Height to the ceilingMeasure at both ends. A closet floor that drops 20mm across its width changes how a wall-hung system is set out.
- Door openingThe clear opening width, and how the doors operate — hinged, bifold, sliding or open. Sliding doors mean half the closet is inaccessible at any moment.
- ObstructionsLight fixtures, switches, outlets, vents, sloped ceilings, and any bulkhead. Photograph anything unusual.
- BaseboardNote the existing baseboard height, since a floor-mounted system either sits on it, is scribed around it, or requires its removal.
Wardrobe inventory
Count in linear centimetres of rail rather than number of items — that is the unit a closet is actually designed in. A rough count is fine; precision is not the point.
| Category | Hanging length needed | Your count (cm of rail) |
|---|---|---|
| Shirts, blouses, folded trousers | 1000mm clearance | ____ |
| Jackets, blazers, suits | 1150mm clearance | ____ |
| Dresses, long coats | 1700mm clearance | ____ |
| Trousers hung full length | 1400mm clearance | ____ |
| Folded items (knitwear, denim) | Shelf space, not rail | ____ |
| Shoes (pairs) | Angled or flat shelving | ____ |
| Bags, hats, accessories | Shelf or cubby | ____ |
A useful rule: roughly 25mm of rail per hanging garment. Twenty shirts need about 500mm of rail, not two metres.
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Also worth noting
- Whether the closet is shared, and how the space should be divided.
- Whether you want drawers inside the closet rather than a dresser in the bedroom.
- Whether there is power nearby for lighting, or whether a circuit is needed.
- How you actually get dressed — if you always fold rather than hang, the design should reflect that.
- Whether long-hang capacity is genuinely needed, since most wardrobes need far less than people assume.
- Any seasonal storage that lives in the closet and could move elsewhere.
Answers
Frequently asked questions
- How much rail length do I actually need?
- Roughly 25mm per hanging garment. Most people substantially overestimate: forty hanging items need about a metre of rail, not three. Measuring what you currently have hanging is far more reliable than estimating.
- Do I need to empty the closet before you measure?
- It helps but it is not essential. What matters is that we can see the walls, the floor and the ceiling, and that you can describe what needs to fit. If you have done the wardrobe count beforehand the design conversation is considerably more productive.
- What if my closet has a sloped ceiling?
- That is a good candidate for custom, since nothing off the shelf fits a rake. Measure the height at both the low and high points and note where the slope begins. Low areas usually become shoe or folded storage; hanging goes under the higher section.
- Should I include a hamper in the closet?
- A pull-out hamper inside the closet keeps laundry out of the bedroom and gets used constantly. It costs a cabinet bay. Most people who include one say it is among the more useful decisions they made.
Want this applied to your space?
Send a few details and we will come and measure. Free, no obligation, and a fixed written price.